Mr. Campbell bribed me to visit distant relatives with him in Toronto last weekend by promising a trip to Miriam Baker’s studio. If you’ve been following her brand on Instagram, then you know she’s hit the mark with her Spring Summer 2018 collection. How could I resist getting up close and personal with the details on this shirt dress or the ruffles on this strapless?
Yet with so much going on, it was this ultra-simple top that lifted my respect for the designer even higher.
I asked Miriam what made this top bust-friendly, and she answered, “You know, it’s blocked for boobs.” When I pressed her for more information, she said, “You know, there’s enough fabric for the bust.” She made it sound so simple, but I needed more. Finally, with a series of tugs to simulate what happens when there isn’t enough fabric, Miriam demonstrated how she creates a fit that most of us never realize we’re missing.
First, the armhole is “suctioned to your arm” so that your chest can’t pull it forward to reveal your bra.
Second, the shoulder seam stays on the shoulder rather than moving forward to compensate for larger breasts.
Third, the side seam stays straight rather than pulling forward.
Finally, the two-way stretch in this fabulous Italian fabric (it feels like silk but it isn’t) allows the fabric to expand as much as necessary over the chest without pooling around the waist.
As I stood admiring the fit on the mannequin, I noticed one more detail: Why was the top so long? Miriam explained, “It’s extra long so that you can shape it around your tummy if you want–and nobody wants a top that’s short!”
With so much attention to a basic knit top, aren’t you curious about the rest of her collection? I can’t wait to share
more in upcoming posts!
I totally agree! Learning to fit for my 36FF changed my life! Now whenever I try on rtw I am never tempted to buy it because this bust issue is never (and never could be!) addressed but when I’m making tops for myself it’s always the most important thing along with a fsa. I don’t have a large waist or hips so if I bought tops to fit my bust they were swimming everywhere else. I always add a bust dart even with knits. It’s the only way I can get a truly good fit.
Thanks for the comment! I think what Darlene is trying to say is that we sell RTW that does address the bust issue. This particular knit fabric does not require a bust dart 🙂
I’d love to see some of the things you’ve sewn for yourself!
I second that!