Why I Love Busty Dressing . . . Guidelines

I know that some of you bristle at being told what you can and cannot wear, but I love the structure that “rules” provide. Admittedly, they can be stifling, but have you considered their wardrobe-expanding nature as well?

Here’s an example. After learning that my underbust is narrower than my waist at the Knit to Flatter workshop, Amy Herzog told us that it can be extremely flattering to create a line at the narrowest part of our torso–with a belt, for instance. “But won’t that make me look like I have boobs on a tray?” I asked.

Don’t do it if it makes you feel uncomfortable,” she said immediately.

Guess what? When I’m considering a change from how I’ve always done things, the last thing I need to hear is, “Stay in your rut.” The logic of her idea had just opened my world, but when that happens, my first reaction is to look for a reason that the new idea won’t work for me. I need a little hand-holding and cheerleading, à la “Come on, try it! You’ll look amazing! You won’t look silly. You won’t look like you’re all boob!”

Amy didn’t give me that, but she did tell us about Stephanie Pearl-McPhee, a well-known knitter who described her own self-consciousness after finishing a sweater with a line running parallel to and directly beneath her bust. I love this post.

horizontal line beneath big bust can flatter narrowest part

What I’ve come to realize is that there is more than one way to create a horizontal line beneath my bust, and that one reason I’ve never done so with a sweater like Stephanie’s is that I could never find one to fit my large breasts. You know–it’s the old boob bifurcation problem. (By the way, I’m super excited to have just discovered that Stephanie is knitting the exact same sweater that I’m going to begin! And my yarn is supposed to arrive today. I can’t wait!)

The trick with rules is not to let them rule you–simply let them guide you. Figure out the logic behind them and how or if that logic applies to you. I was absolutely delighted with the comments to Monday’s post about sleeve length because, as much as I dream of being a big bust dressing expert who knows exactly what every busty woman should wear all the time, the reality is that I’m simply a busty woman who loves to try to figure things out and share what I learn as I go along.

Unfortunately, I can also be pretty rigid about some of the rules that I’ve learned. I realized this when I found Girl With Curves through Already Pretty last month and became mesmerized by Tanesha Awasthi’s outfit posts in her Girl With Curves gallery.  Although it isn’t obvious from every post, I’m pretty sure that Tanesha qualifies as full-busted.

 

full bust bra size on girl with curves

If you study her outfits, you will see that many of them follow the “rules”. There’s a lot of figure-hugging going on, together with a lot of wraps, scoops and V’s. But if she stuck with these looks alone, her blog would be pretty ho-hum.

big bust dressing rules and girl with curves

She also wears items I would automatically avoid in a store and creates outfits with them that I don’t particularly love (although I do like the rust ruffled top, the tan turtle neck with taffeta skirt and the loose, baggy sweater below).

bad busty dressing from girl with curves

My two least favorite elements in these outfits are (1) the “mountain of boobs” look that results from fabric going all the way up to the neck; and (2) bagginess. Does my opinion matter? No. She still looks amazing, doesn’t she?

Finally, she takes pieces that I consider off limits to women with large busts and comes up with looks that even I can get behind. Do you know why I think these work? Because they follow other rules!

how to break busty rules and get away with it by girl with curves

Clockwise from top left: (1) breast pockets on her denim shirt don’t matter when worn over her eye-catching dress; the stripes and color get all the attention while the shirt creates a vertical line; (2) it’s a high neck but the color makes her look so alive and the fitted bodice shows off her shape; (3) this fussy print is overwhelming, but notice the simplifying, eye-catching detail on the heels and bag (go here for a better look: http://girlwithcurves.com/post/46577044607/print-on-print); (4) the shirt hem coming out from beneath the hem of her jacket keeps it from looking too boxy; (5) amazing sheath dress that hugs her curves–who cares about anything else?; (6) high neck poplin could be all boobs, but the necklace and jacket share the limelight.

Big Busts and Sleeve Length Choice

Let’s face it–when a busty woman finds a top that fits her large chest, has a flattering neckline, drapes the way it’s supposed to, and comes in a color she loves, she may be willing to overlook sleeve length. I do all the time (case in point: the floral dress with cap sleeves that I purchased from JCP last month).

Sometimes, however, we have the luxury of sleeve options. When you do have that luxury, keep in mind another lesson I learned from Amy Herzog’s Knit to Flatter workshop: The ending of your sleeve acts as an arrow to that point on your body.  In my case,

  • short sleeves point to my bust,
  • elbow-length sleeves point to my waist,
  • 3/4 sleeves point to my high hip, and
  • long sleeves point to my hips.

large chest flattering sleeve length

In the pictures above, I really like the elbow-length sleeves because I feel like the they make me look more hourglassy even though I don’t have a super-pronounced waist. (For a different perspective, read Already Pretty’s thoughts on elbow-length sleeves in her post on sleeve lengths.) I believe this is one reason the Elise dress from Saint Bustier has looked amazing on every full-busted woman I’ve seen wearing it.

It almost goes without saying, but sleeves that end at the bust can place a simple black top squarely in “look at me” territory, as I discovered in 2010. In that post, I noted that I preferred waist-length sleeves to hip-length sleeves because they made for a “less cluttered look” on someone with my 5’3″ height.

large chest spotlighted via cap sleeves

A large bust is only one of the factors that goes into determining the best sleeve length for you. In the comments to last week’s waistline/neckline post, Wide Curves wrote,

“The other phenomena I noticed, since I am so short waisted, is I can only wear very short vertical(ish) sleeves or 3/4 sleeves that fall below my elbow. Everything else makes my chest/shoulders into a giant “box” and visually places my bust on my hips-especially if the sleeve ends around my bust.”

What factors determine your own sleeve-length preferences?