Fall is well upon us, and it’s already starting to feel like winter here in New York City. That means it’s one of my favorite times of year—jacket season!

Last year, I reviewed the Collectif Pearl Coat as a good bust-friendly option. This year, I’ve been hankering for a 1940s-style short jacket, but really wanted one that would be warm enough to wear as a proper coat, not just a fashion blazer.

Naturally, I looked to Collectif again, and they did not disappoint! I went with the dark olive green “Molly” jacket because it’s part wool and has a big (faux) fur collar. It’s nearly sold out on Collectif’s site, but can be purchased from several other retailers, including TopVintage.net and ModCloth.com (where it’s listed as the “Sentimental Twist Belted Jacket”).

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The jacket is 20% wool and 80% polyester, and it’s fully lined in 97% polyester/ 3% spandex. The outer fabric feels super soft, and so far the lining is perfectly comfortable and doesn’t make me sweat any extra. It features belt loops and matching belt, four buttons up the front, and a removable faux fur collar (over a curved lapel). The fur is ultra silky and shiny with a deep pile. It certainly wouldn’t fool anyone into thinking it’s real, but it feels nice against the skin and really does add a lot of extra warmth, even with the deep, open neckline.

I measure 37”-29”-41” and wear UK 28GG. Ordinarily I take a UK 12 (US Medium) in Collectif, though I occasionally size down to a 10. The description of this jacket says it’s cut slim, but so does the Pearl Coat’s description, and that in size 12 fits me perfectly. But size 12 was sold out when I was ready to purchase, so I went up to a 14 anyway—and I’m glad I did!

The shoulders, arms, and bust all fit perfectly. There’s enough room for a thick sweater or sweatshirt beneath it without being bulky or baggy when worn over a thinner top. The waist is a little big, to be honest, but the wide belt means I can cinch it in if I want an extra hourglassy shape.

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Now, I have to note that I actually moved the belt loops a whole inch and a half lower than where they were originally placed. You can see in the manufacturer photo that the belt is located right under the boobs. That’s great if you have a short torso or your underbust is the narrowest part of your ribcage. But it did not play nice with my super-long torso and smaller waist.

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Here’s me wearing the jacket with the belt fastened in its original location. You can clearly see how far down I moved the belt loops.

One thing I do appreciate about the belt loops is that there are four of them—two in the front and two in back. It drives me nuts when clothes only have two loops, one on each side. Inevitably, my rounded tummy causes the front of the belt to curve upward, and the sway of my lower spine causes the back of the balt to slide downward, and I end up looking pregnant. Here, that is no issue!

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So not only do I have the belt to cinch in my waist, but the tailoring of the jacket is also very bust-friendly. It features classic princess seams, which always help clothing contour nicely to bigger breasts. It also flares out just a bit on the hip, helping to balance my volume up top.

Sadly, there are no pockets, but even if there were, they probably would have interfered with my placement of the belt loops, so I can live without them.

Today’s temperature was in the upper 40s and low 50s (Fahrenheit), and the coat was more than warm enough over a long-sleeved tee. I think it might be a little cool at sub-freezing temperatures, but even then, I could probably be okay if I added a warmer layer underneath and a good scarf.

I originally took this next photo to show off the collar without the fur, but was too lazy to remove the fur (which is attached with little buttons all along the inside of the neck), but then I realized that if I get chilly, I can flip the fur collar up like so for extra warmth. In fact, I’m tempted to add a hook and eye so that I can do that without needing to hold it closed.

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Collectif really is the best for vintage-style winter coats and jackets. At this rate, I’m going to need a bigger closet!

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